Previous Leg ! Back to Index ! Next Leg
Don's 2000 Trail Notes
Takotna to Ophir
(38 miles)
Quick Overview
This leg is probably closer to 32 miles than the posted 38. It follows the old mining road over to Ophir, built in the 1920s to connect Takotna and Ophir with Sterling Landing, a steamboat landing on the Kuskokwim River. It is now maintained by the state; the stretch from Takotna to Ophir isn't plowed in the winter. Like other Bush roads, it doesn't connect to the state highway system.
The first part is a 9-mile climb to the top of the divide between the Kuskokwim River drainage and that of the Innoko River, which flows into the Yukon. The rise is about 800 feet on easy grades. Then the road crosses the divide and runs downhill along Independence Creek for another 8 miles, then follows the south bank of the Innoko River for the last 15 miles into Ophir, with possibly a few overland shortcuts across bends.
Detailed Description
You'll leave Takotna on the main street and will start climbing almost immediately. After a mile and a half you'll come to a fork in the road; keep right. The road will steadily climb up and around the ridge on a series of gentle switchbacks. There are no surprises since this section is semi-maintained for another few miles. After several miles you will see a well-used driveway heading to the right to a house on the top of the hill. Past this point the road is unmaintained and is actually running along or just below the crest of the ridge, with gentle ups and downs. During the day this part of the trail is very scenic. Your highest elevation will be about 1,200 feet.
Just before the divide, the trail will jump off the road to the right and up a bank, cutting across a switchback. You'll rejoin the road in another few hundred yards headed downhill. Between here and Ophir there will probably be some short glaciered areas where the road will be partly covered with a sloping sheet of ice from springs on the uphill side. The trail may dip into the downhill ditch line to get by, or may skitter along the ice. Sometimes there is also overflow on the approaches to the bridges across the creeks flowing into the Innoko, and sometimes the trail will bypass the bridges and cross the creeks themselves.
The run down the Independence Creek valley is normally uneventful. You'll cross Independence Creek on a bridge identified by a state highway sign (all the bridges have signposts). The road will then run along the south side of the Innoko River to Ophir, passing a couple of cabins and a mining camp enroute. Depending on the year and the snow cover, the trail may cut overland across a few bends to avoid badly drifted or glaciered stretches. Everything will be well marked with four-foot Iditarod trail stakes.
Two and a half miles after crossing Independence Creek, you'll cross Yankee Creek, then Ganes Creek (four miles more), then Little Creek (another half mile). Between Yankee Creek and Ganes Creek the road will skirt the Innoko River; look for some old buildings and an abandoned gold dredge. Ganes Creek is about five miles from the checkpoint. When you pass a mining camp with a number of buildings on the left side of the road, you're a couple of miles from the checkpoint. When you see a sign saying "State Maintenance Ends" the checkpoint is just ahead.
The checkpoint is in Dick and Audra Forsgren's cabin, which dates to the 1930s. It's actually a mile short of Ophir itself, of which there isn't much left except an airport and a couple of buildings. (Ophir had its heyday in 1907 and 1908, boasting a thousand inhabitants.) Dick and Audra fly out every year to help man the checkpoint, and it's a fair bet Audra will have a steaming pot of stew on the old wood-burning stove in the cabin. This is one of the classic Iditarod checkpoints, and pulling in at night, with lantern light glowing in the windows, is like something out of a dream.
Whether you're on the northern or southern route, this is your last vestige of civilization for a very long while. The trip from here to Cripple and on to Ruby (or down to Iditarod and over to Shageluk and Anvik) is arguably the longest, emptiest, loneliest stretch of trail on the race, and the checkpoints at Cripple or Iditarod are basically nothing but tent camps in otherwise uninhabited locations.
Historical Note
The original Iditarod Trail cut southwest from Takotna in the long, straight valley of Fourth of July Creek. It eventually jumped over to Flat and then to Iditarod, on the Iditarod River. A branch of the old trail, sometimes called the Seward-to-Nome Mail Trail, went west from Takotna to Ophir, a gold camp on the upper Innoko River which had its heyday as a boomtown in 1907 and was already fading when Iditarod sprang to life in 1909.
The branch trail continued west from Ophir, across the mountains west of the Innoko River to Madison Creek (another mining area on the lower reaches of the northward-flowing Iditarod River). From Madison Creek, the trail crossed the trackless Innoko lowlands to Dishkaket, a long-vanished steamboat stop on the Innoko River. At Dishkaket, the branch rejoined what is usually considered the "mainline" Iditarod Trail from Iditarod and Dikeman (another ghost town about 25 miles north of Iditarod). In effect, the Ophir-to-Dishkaket trail bypassed Iditarod completely and was used more and more in later years as Iditarod withered away.
Yet another branch of the old Iditarod Trail system led southwest from Ophir across Beaver Flats, across the Dishna River to First Chance Creek, and then to Dikeman, joining the trail from Iditarod to Dishkaket. This trail came to be known as the Hunter Trail and is the trail used by the race from Ophir to Iditarod in odd-numbered years (although it bypasses the site of Dikeman by a few miles).
Dishkaket, once a busy trail hub in the wilderness, has long been abandoned. The trails across the Innoko River lowlands from Ophir and Iditarod have been disused for more than half a century, as has the trail from Dishkaket to Kaltag. This completely empty stretch will almost certainly be the very last part of the Iditarod to be reclaimed.
Photos

The trail to Ophir follows the old 1920s mining road that is still maintained in the summer by the state. The last 15 miles of trail into Ophir are dotted with old cabins such as this one.

About a mile from the Ophir checkpoint, teams pass this sign announcing the end of state road maintenance.

The checkpoint at Ophir is in Dick and Audra Forsgren's cabin, which dates at least to the 1930s. It is one of the few buildings left standing in Ophir.
Previous Leg ! Back to Index ! Next Leg